If you’ve ever wandered into a Canadian estate sale and stumbled upon a sharp-looking wristwatch with the word Birks on the dial, congratulations, you’ve just met one of vintage watch collecting’s best-kept (and most Canadian) secrets.

Because long before Canada had Drake and even longer before it had the Toronto International Film Festival, it had Birks, a homegrown institution draped in diamonds, bathed in old-world elegance, and hiding a little horological mischief under its sleeves.

Let’s dive into the story of Henry Birks & Sons, and how the “Cartier of Canada” quietly smuggled Swiss craftsmanship into the hands (and onto the wrists) of generations of tasteful Canucks.

The House That Henry Built

The story begins in 1879, when a young Henry Birks opened a small jewellery shop in Montreal with just $3,000 and a dream. He wanted to offer Canadians a dose of Old World luxury, without having to steamship to London or Paris.

It worked. By the turn of the century, Birks was the place to buy engagement rings, heirloom silverware, and yes, Watches. As Canada’s answer to Tiffany’s or Cartier, Birks became the go-to for tasteful extravagance.

And if you think that's just marketing sparkle, consider this: Birks has been brushing shoulders with royalty for nearly a century. In 1934, they received a Royal Warrant to supply the British crown. By the time Princess Elizabeth (yes, the future Queen) toured Canada in the 1950s, Birks was already the jeweller of choice for diplomatic dazzlement. She was gifted a gem-laden platinum necklace and declared it “the most beautiful gift” she’d ever received. During WWII, her mother—the Queen Mother—was presented with a diamond-set maple leaf brooch by Birks, a piece she wore proudly when visiting Canadian troops in London. Even Montreal got in on the regal action, offering Queen Elizabeth II a Birks silver salver in 1959 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the St. Lawrence Seaway.

Meet the Swiss Behind the Maple Leaf

Birks didn’t manufacture their own watches. Instead, they pulled off what I like to call a horological hat trick, partnering with some of the best Swiss watchmakers of the 20th century and slapping their own name on the dial. This process is called private labelling and its still a common practice in many industries.

Here are just a few of the heavy hitters who made watches for Birks:

Omega

Birks-signed Omegas are out there, and they’re glorious. Often from the 1940s–1960s, you’ll find Omega calibers (like the classic Cal. 30T2 or Cal. 501 automatic) inside cases marked “Birks” or even with co-branding on the dial. These were frequently cased in Canada, a practice common at the time due to tariffs on imported Swiss gold cases.

Longines

A longtime favorite of Canadian military contracts and civilian collectors alike, Longines movements—especially from the 1940s and 1950s—can be found inside Birks-signed dials. Their elegant Cal. 23Z and 12.68Z movements often appear in sharp, dressy pieces that fly under the radar.

Eterna

One of the unsung heroes of Swiss watchmaking. Eterna was a frequent partner of Birks, providing both movements and fully assembled watches. Look for the Eterna-matic automatic calibers tucked inside sleek 1950s steel dress watches with the Birks name on the dial.

Universal Genève

Yes, UG! Birks offered private-label versions of some classic Universal Genève models, especially in the pre-Polerouter era. Chronographs are rare but do exist. The good stuff, if you can find it, carries that slim mid-century charm UG was famous for.

Movado

Before Movado turned minimalist, it was a heavy-hitter with impressive in-house calibers. Birks sold some Movado-based pieces under its own name, and you’ll spot the signature triple-dot logo inside the caseback if you’re lucky.

Buren & Cyma

These workhorse brands supplied Birks with simple, reliable watches that offered high quality without the flash. Think of these as the Hamiltons or Tudors of their day, sharp, dependable, and very collectible today.

So Why Did Birks Do This?

Simple: Tariffs, branding, and trust.

Canada imposed heavy duties on imported luxury goods, especially those cased in gold. So, many Swiss brands shipped bare movements to North America where they were cased and sold locally. Birks, with its sterling reputation and nationwide retail presence, became the ideal partner.

But beyond economics, Birks had something even more powerful: trust. If you were buying a watch in Montreal, Vancouver, or Winnipeg in the 1950s, the Birks name meant it had been vetted. It was the store your parents, your grandparents, and probably your great-aunt Margaret all trusted.

What’s It Worth Today?

Here’s the kicker: Birks-signed watches often sell for significantly less than their fully branded counterparts, despite having the same (or nearly the same) movements.

A Birks Omega Cal. 501 in a gold-filled case might fetch hundreds less than a fully signed Omega Seamaster—even if they’re mechanically identical. For collectors willing to go a little off the beaten path, that’s a screaming deal with a great story.

Final Thoughts

Birks watches are like Canada itself, quietly excellent, a little mysterious, and extremely polite about how cool they actually are. They’re a reminder that private-label doesn’t mean second-rate. In fact, in many cases, it meant the opposite: hand-selected, locally cased, and sold by a jeweler who built its entire brand on quality and integrity.

So, next time you see a Birks-signed watch in a dusty case or on a sleepy auction site, don’t scroll past. Give it a chance, you never know whats under the hood!

You’re not just buying a watch—you’re wearing a forgotten chapter of Canadian horological history.

Birks: “Canada’s Cartier” with a Secret Ticking Beneath